Rice, wheat, barley and barbecued animals flavoured with spices and fruit formed the basis of the cuisine of rich Indians of the past. What else did they eat and why?
The dietary habits of India are quite well-known: there are millions of vegetarians, owing to religious beliefs that hold life sacred, while Hindus eschew beef and Muslims find pork abhorrent. Yet were these habits followed in ancient times? What did people eat hundreds or thousands of years ago?
Then as now, it is rice which formed the basis of most meals. The type of rice determined how it was prepared. Short-grained rice was pounded into flour and then used to make the pancakes known as chapattis which are still a very important part of the Indian cuisine. Long-grained rice was generally mixed with vegetable broth to form a kind of gruel. Medium-grained rice was the most commonly used as the basis for meals. Indian households resounded to the sound of the regular beating of mortar and pestle as the rice was separated from its husks, before being sorted and then rinsed regularly. It was then cooked in water brought to the boil. This rice could be a meal in itself, and often was for the poorer people who would be grateful enough for it. Alternatively, it could be served flavoured with ghee (clarified butter) or mango juice or garam or other spices. Cinnamon, cardamom and mace were the basic spices used in combination on nearly all dishes. These spices had been brought from the South Sea islands at a very early date.
Rice was heaped up on a plate and cooled with fans so that people could eat when they were ready. The most common side dish was the kind of curds still served today in northern India and elsewhere. Beans, barley and wheat were other staples which were used to create basic dishes, flavoured with the three base spices, to accompany the rice. The presence of meat varied depending on religious belief and caste. The ksatriya caste was, in general terms, the only caste rich enough to be able to have meat on a regular basis and not to be forbidden it. Animals and fish might be prepared in various ways: those of a suitable size could be barbecued on a spit, basted with ghee and marinated with spices, while others might be boiled with fruit or bitter herbs, tamarind or sorrel. Useful or milk-giving animals were generally not killed, although exceptions were made for gazelles. The fear of lack of food remained constant and there was very little waste. Spices formed an appetizer between dishes and also provoked thirst. Desserts were exquisite from a very early age and formed a centerpiece for banquets for the wealthy.
